After being informed on the brief and what our deliverables were, our first textile session with Janet was all around ‘working with stretch’.
I personally have not worked much with stretch fabrics and after the session we had today, I feel more at ease and not so frightened of the movement within the fabric.
Working on the stand and experimenting with how stretch fabrics move, drape, hang and overall the manipulation of the fabric and how it’s created, gave an in depth view that the possibilities are really endless. Usually I’m used to seeing jersey fabrics as the main component of a fast fashion cash cow, but it was reassuring to hear that there are luxury jersey stretch fabrics around and it has encouraged me to create my own mini fabric sample folder. The downfall in my last project was that I didn’t spend enough time researching my fabrics and in the end the final choice was not ideal for my design. So this time round I want to get it right and get as much research and sampling done as much as possible.
Experimenting with cut, stretch, knot, drape, twist
Our menswear designs will be 2D and our womenswear will be 3D, including a dress made out of stretch, a top and trousers/jumpsuit that can be a mixture between woven and stretch fabrics.
Below are some pictures of finishing technique samples on various stretch fabrics. I chose to do a technique on 4 different types of stretch to see how each performs in order to give me a wider range of fabrics to choose from. There is also a video of Cathy’s demo on the overlocker and cover-stitch machine.
Cathy showed us how the overlocker, cover-stitch and sewing machine works on stretch fabrics. The important things that stood out to me where the following:
-Using a ballpoint needle, check its bluntness and for any snags
-Don’t rush whilst using the overlocker and cover-stitch-take your time
-Be aware of the thickness of the fabrics as some of the machines don’t work well with thick layers
-When it comes to sewing stretch fabrics, be aware of your handling, always keep the fabric flat and don’t stretch it any further.
-Get to know which way and how many ways your fabric stretches before you do your pattern cutting, so that you know which way it will go in accordance to your design.